CUBA 3–14 February 2010 Leader: Arturo Kirkconnel

Cuba is the largest island in the Caribbean and while it does not possess the most endemics (Jamaica is the richest in this respect), it certainly attracts the most controversy and interest. For birders, it is the haunt of such little-known species as Zapata Rail and chances of seeing this bird are very real. All of the other currentlyrecognised 20+ endemics should be readily seen within the course of our tour.

Day 1 Flight to Havana, Cuba, where we will make the three-hour transfer to Playa Girón, on the edge of the Zapata Peninsula. This is one of the richest areas for birds in the entire West Indies region. Not only is it the haunt of innumerable wintering North American warblers (Palm, Black-throated Blue, Cape May, Worm-eating, Black-throated Green, Prairie and Black-and-white Warblers, American Redstart, Northern Parula and others, many of which should still be present at the time of our visit), but it holds more endemics than any other region of Cuba. Over 200 species have been recorded in the Zapata area, and we should soon be seeing our first island endemics and regional specialities: Cuban Blackbird, Greater Antillean Oriole, Cuban Emerald, Cuban Crow and Tawny-shouldered Blackbird. Five nights at Playa Girón.

Days 2–5 Each day will follow a similar pattern. After an early breakfast we will head to an adjacent area (most of them patches of dry woodland) and bird until late morning before returning to the hotel for lunch and a short siesta, thereafter returning to the field mid-afternoon. Many of the areas we will explore hold similar birds and, for instance, we will search mixed flocks for the endemic Yellow-headed Warbler and Cuban Vireo, be ever alert for the short rattling call of a Cuban Tody (one of five species of tody, a family endemic to the Greater Antilles), perhaps catch the flash of a Cuban Trogon (the republic's national bird) or Great Lizard-cuckoo as it flits across the path in front of us and watch for any signs of panic among the small birds which may indicate the imminent presence of the rare Gundlach's Hawk.

Some of our main targets will be the quail-doves, of which four species occur on the island; indeed at least three can be found at several sites in the Zapata region. The gorgeous Blue-headed Quail-dove, which belongs to a monotypic genus, will be our chief quarry. Ruddy Quail-dove is widespread throughout much of the Neotropics, but Key West Quail-dove has a rather limited distribution within the Greater Antilles (and the Florida Keys), while the endangered Gray-headed Quail-dove is confined to Cuba and Hispaniola. All are regularly seen, though time and patience are always prerequisites in the quest for these beautiful birds. Zenaida Dove will doubtless provide occasional heart flutters, as this species is also frequent on Zapata's trails. Several woodpeckers are to be found in the region: Yellow-bellied Sapsucker is a common winter migrant (interestingly most are females; males appear to principally use Hispaniola at this season), while West Indian Woodpecker, the endemic race of Northern Flicker and Cuban Woodpecker are all reasonably common residents. The ultimate prize is the rare and declining Fernandina's Flicker. This super bird is known from several sites in this area, one of which also harbours a number of other hole-nesters that will be high on our wanted list: Rose-throated Parrot, Cuban Parakeet and Bare-legged Owl.

One morning we will take a packed breakfast and make an earlier than usual start for the famous Zapata Swamp. Be prepared for wet feet! The walk through open woodland to the swamp is interesting in itself and we should see Northern and Louisiana Waterthrushes, Cuban Pygmy-owl (often active in the day), Cuban Bullfinch, Zapata Sparrow (along the wetter stretches) and Red-shouldered Blackbird (only recently regarded as specifically distinct from the North American Red-winged Blackbird). Our principal target, once we reach the swamp, will be the extremely localised Zapata Wren. This highly tape-responsive species has recently been seen as frequently from the trail as in the swamp, and we will hope for similar good fortune. This place is also home to the ultra-secretive Zapata Rail for which we will make every possible effort (perhaps returning to the site if we have time), as well as Spotted and King Rails, Sora and a range of common marsh birds including herons, Belted Kingfisher and Northern Harrier.

Another species that is synonymous with Cuba is the smallest bird in the world: Bee Hummingbird. We will visit several of its known haunts during the course of our time in the Zapata region, two of which are also excellent areas in which to find quail-doves and wintering Nearctic migrants. Finally, we will make a couple of early-evening excursions. One of these, just a few kilometres from our hotel, will aim to find Cuban Nightjar in a regular locality for the species (now widely regarded as distinct from the form in Hispaniola), while the other will be just a short walk from our hotel rooms. A pair of Stygian Owls is a regular feature of the hotel grounds, being frequently seen between the guest rooms and the dining area and swimming pool.

Day 6 All-day drive to the historic centre of Camagüey, the third-largest (and oldest) city in Cuba, where we will arrive in the late afternoon. We will have lunch and bird en route, and, on arrival at our hotel, we will watch from our fifth-floor dining room window for the endemic breeder, Cuban Martin. This species, which is very similar to Purple Martin (which migrates through Cuba), is unknown anywhere else in the world, but is absent from the island between autumn and late January.

Day 7 Early morning departure for the Sierra de Najasa, south of Camagüey city. Before reaching our final destination, the El Belen reserve, we will pause at a regular site for the globally endangered Plain Pigeon; also here are both Cuban Crow and Cuban Palm Crow, facilitating an appreciation of the differences between these two all-black species. Also here should be Eastern Meadowlarks, which exhibit a number of differences from populations of this bird in the USA, and is soon to be described as a new Cuban endemic species! At El Belen itself we will concentrate on another globally threatened bird, now endemic to Cuba: Giant Kingbird. Other species to be found in this area include Cuban Parakeet, Fernandina's Flicker, Cuban and Yellow-faced Grassquits, Gundlach's Hawk and yet more wintering North American warblers. We will also check a nearby lake for West Indian Whistling-duck. After lunch we will make the drive north to Cayo Coco, where we will spend two nights.

Day 8 Cayo Coco, situated off the north coast of Cuba but linked by a long causeway to the mainland, was once a wilderness known only to fisherman (including the most famous of them all, Ernest Hemingway). Within the last ten years the Cuban government, using foreign (mainly Spanish, German and Canadian) money, has been developing the region for tourism, along the lines of the Jamaican model. In the migration seasons this is an exciting place to be, with a list of rarities to match anywhere in the Greater Antilles. Our day in the area will, however, concentrate on finding the breeding specialities of the region. An endemic subspecies of Thick-billed Vireo is found nowhere else but here; Cuban Gnatcatcher and Oriente Warbler are close to the westernmost limits of their ranges; while Mangrove Cuckoo and Bahama Mockingbird are, in Cuba, largely or wholly restricted to these islands. Clapper Rail is another feature of these keys and, should we have missed it earlier, there is another chance for Key West Quail-dove. In addition, a different subspecies (one of three) of Zapata Sparrow is locally quite common. The beaches may harbour Piping Plover. Small numbers of terns and gulls can be seen offshore and the causeway is the best (and often the only) place in the West Indies to see Red-breasted Merganser, although most visitors are more impressed by the large flock of Caribbean Flamingos, and many waders and herons that use this area.

Day 9 All-day journey back to Havana, where we stay for the last two nights.

Day 10 On our final day in Cuba we will make an early start for the two-hour drive to La Güira National Park. This superb area, at the west end of the island, is a highland region that is still well forested. It is excellent for endemics and we should find a good selection of species that we will have encountered previously on the tour. Our most pressing targets will be the endemic Cuban Solitaire and near-endemic Olive-capped Warbler, both of which are usually readily found. Following lunch in a nearby hotel, we will return to Havana with sufficient time for those with an interest in colonial architecture, or just fascinating cities, to spend some time sightseeing.

Day 11 We may have time for a brief tour of old Havana before the return flight to Kingston to connect with our flight back to London.

Day 12 Arrival back in the UK.

General Information The climate can vary from hot, but rarely humid, in most areas to cool in the morning at the higher elevations of La Güira. Rain is possible. The tour pace is moderate but with early starts. Walking is generally easy, mostly on level ground. There are no significant health requirements. Insects can be a problem at times and repellents are recommended. Visas are required.

Group size Minimum number for tour to go ahead: 8; maximum group size: 16 with 2 leaders.

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