ETHIOPIA
29 October–14 November 2012
Extension to 20 November
29 October–14 November 2013
Extension to 20 November
Over 850 bird species have been recorded in Ethiopia. To find some of the most sought-after, such as the fabled Prince Ruspoli's Turaco and the enigmatic Stresemann's Bush Crow, we will venture to rarely-visited remote corners of this ancient land. There is a six-day extension to look for Harwood's Francolin, Ankober Serin and White-throated Seedeater, so it will be possible to see 27 of the 28 Ethiopian endemics.
Day 1 Overnight flight from London to Addis Ababa.
Day 2 Arrival in Addis Adaba and transfer to our hotel. Flocks of Hooded Vultures and Black Kites will be wheeling over the city whilst Dusky Turtle-doves, Brown-rumped Buntings, dazzling Tacazze Sunbirds, Baglafecht Weavers and Streaky Seedeaters may be seen even from our hotel rooms! We will merely leave our luggage in a storeroom however, and head north to the Sululta Plains. These high-altitude plateau grasslands provide superb birding, despite intensive cultivation. Resident birds we may find here include the endemics Blue-winged Goose, Wattled Ibis, and White-collared Pigeon, Secretarybird, White-backed Vulture, African Hobby, Erckel's Francolin, Blanford's Lark, Red-chested Swallow, Cape Crow, Pectoral-patch Cisticola and African Quailfinch. Suddenly, the seemingly endless plain dramatically drops off into the Blue Nile drainage system. Perched on the edge of the gorge is Debre Libanos Monastery, one of Ethiopia's most sacred Christian sites. We will search here for Rüppell's Griffon, Verreaux's Eagle, African Hawk-eagle, Augur Buzzard (dark-morph birds are commonly seen here), Lanner Falcon, Nyanza Swift, Hemprich's Hornbill, Red-rumped Swallow, Mourning Wheatear, Snowy-crowned Robin-chat, Mocking Cliff-chat, Yellow-rumped Serin, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting and three endemics: Rüppell's Chat, White-winged Cliff-chat and White-billed Starling. Another speciality of this area is Lion-headed Baboon. In the afternoon we will return to Addis Ababa, where we will spend the night.
Day 3 We will depart early, dropping into the Great Rift Valley and making our first birding stop at Debre Zeit Crater Lake. The woodlands surrounding the lake teem with birds and we will look for Black Goshawk, flocks of approachable Black-winged Lovebirds, Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Black-billed Barbet, Rufous-necked Wryneck, African Yellow Warbler, Rüppell's Robin-chat, Black-headed Batis, Beautiful Sunbird and Rüppell's Weaver. We will also visit Koka Dam and Lakes Gelila and Zeway. Here we will search for Pink-backed and Great White Pelicans, Intermediate Egret, African Darter, Goliath Heron, Hamerkop, Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed Storks, Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese, Comb Duck, African Pygmy-goose, African Fish-eagle, Black Crowned-crane, African and Lesser Jacanas, Senegal Thick-knee, Spur-winged Lapwing, Pied and Malachite Kingfishers and Winding Cisticola, and also enjoy a picnic lunch. Overnight at Wabe Shabelle Hotel, Lake Awasa.
Day 4 Before breakfast we will explore our wooded hotel grounds. Amongst our targets will be African Mourning Dove, Woodland Kingfisher, Green Woodhoopoe, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Double-toothed Barbet, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike, Spotted Creeper, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Grey-backed Fiscal, Northern Puffback, Little Weaver and Bronze Mannikin. Reed-beds in the vicinity support Greater Painted-snipe, Purple Swamphen, Black Crake, Blue-headed Coucal, Red-faced Cisticola, Lesser Swamp Warbler and Common Waxbill. After breakfast we will visit Lake Awasa fish market, where the discarded waste attracts large numbers of Marabou Storks and other birds, giving unrivalled photographic opportunities. We should also see Long-tailed Cormorant, Sacred Ibis, Grey-headed and Lesser Black-backed (Heuglin's) Gulls and the aptly-named Thick-billed Raven. In the afternoon we will transfer to the Wondo Genet Resort Hotel for a two-night stay. Close to the hotel are swimming pools filled with water from nearby hot springs.
Day 5 We will spend the day exploring our hotel gardens and nearby forests. Species we may find include Ayres' Hawk-eagle, flocks of endemic Yellow-fronted Parrots, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, White-cheeked Turaco, the endemic Banded Barbet, Little Spotted Woodpecker, Lesser and Green-backed Honeyguides, Brown Sawwing, Mountain Wagtail, Abyssinian Thrush, Brown Woodland-warbler, Abyssinian Slaty-flycatcher, White-rumped Babbler, Collared, Scarlet-chested and Western Olive Sunbirds, Dark-headed Oriole, Slender-billed and the rare Sharpe's Starlings, Green-backed Twinspot and Black-and-white Mannikin. The hotel grounds also support families of Grivet Monkeys and Guereza Black-and-white Colobus monkeys.
Day 6 Today we will head for the world-famous Bale Mountains National Park. At the park headquarters we will search for Chestnut-naped Francolin, Groundscraper Thrush (endemic race simensis), Abyssinian Ground-thrush and the endemic Abyssinian Longclaw, Abyssinian Catbird White-backed Black-tit and Abyssinian Siskin. We will also hope to see a variety of mammals including Mountain Nyala, Menelik's Bushbuck and Desert Warthog. The park wardens may also have roosting sites for Abyssinian Owl, African Wood-owl and Abyssinian Nightjar. Three nights at Wabe Shabelle Hotel, Goba.
Day 7 Today we will descend 1600m to enjoy some dry warmth in the Sof Omar region. The habitat here consists of broad-leaved and Acacia woodlands, which hold many new species for us. Our main target bird will be the extremely range-restricted Salvadori's Serin, the most attractive of Ethiopia's endemic canaries. Other target birds will include D'Arnaud's Barbet, Somali Crow, Northern Brownbul, Somali Tit, the localised Brown-tailed Chat, Yellow-breasted Apalis (a form likely to be split as Brown-tailed Apalis), Rosy-patched Bushshrike and the impressive Bristle-crowned Starling. Other likely species include Crested Francolin, Vinaceous, Ring-necked and Namaqua Doves, Emerald-spotted Wood-dove, Red-bellied Parrot, Speckled Mousebird, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Black-billed Woodhoopoe, Von der Decken's and Red-billed Hornbills, Black-throated Barbet, Cardinal and Nubian Woodpeckers, Grey Wren-warbler, Northern Crombec, Rufous Chatterer, Pygmy Batis, Kenya Violet-backed Sunbird, Brubru, White (Bushy-crested) Helmetshrike, Superb Starling, White-headed Buffalo-weaver, Speke's Weaver, the local subspecies of Red-headed Weaver, Eastern Paradise-whydah, Straw-tailed Whydah, Village Indigobird, Red-cheeked Cordonbleu, Cut-throat, Purple Grenadier and Reichard's Seedeater. Sof Omar boasts Ethiopia's longest cave system and we will take time out from our busy birding schedule to wander through some of these impressive tunnels with underground waterways and roosting Horseshoe Bats.
Day 8 We will drive up the Bale Mountain massif onto the Sanetti Plateau, which lies between 3800m and 4377m above sea level. As we ascend, we will enter a Tid, or Juniper forest zone, and here we will search for African Goshawk, Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk, African Hill Babbler, the very localised Abyssinian Woodpecker, Cinnamon Bracken-warbler, Broad-ringed White-eye and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. Once we reach the unique plateau we will be driving on Africa's highest road, passing close to the summit of Ethiopia's second-highest mountain. The habitat is termed 'Afro-alpine moorland' and is characterised by Jibrra, or Giant Lobelias, which tower over the rich tussock grasslands. This site is an Important Bird Area of immense significance, supporting seven globally-threatened bird species and nearly all of Ethiopia's highland biome species. If we are very fortunate we will see a pair of endangered Wattled Cranes striding through the moist grassland or spot a Cape Eagle-owl sunning on a rocky perch. We will also search for Black Stork, Wattled Ibis, Lammergeier, Chestnut-naped and Moorland Francolins, the endemic Rouget's Rail, Spot-breasted Lapwing, Thekla Lark, Red-throated Pipit, Red-breasted Wheatear and Moorland Chat. The grasslands are estimated to support an amazing biomass of 4000kg of rodents per hectare. This obviously attracts raptors, and we should see Steppe and Golden Eagles and Pallid Harriers hunting over this green sea. They share the abundant food source with the plateau's most celebrated resident, Ethiopian (Simien) Wolf, the world's rarest canid. Finally, we will reach the escarpment of this elevated plateau and stare down through the clouds at the vast Harenna Forest below. This is the largest intact forest block in Ethiopia and the largest protected Afro-alpine forest on the continent. It still supports Lions and the only surviving forest-dwelling African Wild Dogs. Here we will search for the uncommon Mountain Buzzard, Rameron Pigeon, Lemon and Tambourine Doves, African Emerald Cuckoo, Narina Trogon, Brown Woodland-warbler (a subspecies endemic to this National Park), Abyssinian Crimson-wing, Cape Canary and the virtually endemic African Citril. In the afternoon we will return to Goba across the Sanetti Plateau.
Day 9 Today we will depart early, heading for the dry thorn savannah in the remote southern part of Ethiopia. Firstly we head up over the Sanetti Plateau again giving us another opportunity to look for species we may have missed. We then drop down to the amazing Harenna Forest where we will make opportunistic stops and also take a lunch break. Finally, we will reach a dry wadi on the Genale River, home to Ethiopia's most sought-after endemic, Prince Ruspoli's Turaco. We should enjoy excellent views of this very unusual and beautiful bird. In the late afternoon we will arrive in Negele, where we will spend two nights at a simple hotel.
Day 10 East of Negele lie the Liben Plains, the only place in the world to find Sidamo Lark. We will walk across the plains in search of this special bird, which we will hope to watch performing its parachute display flight. We should also find Kori and Black-bellied Bustards, Black-winged Plover and the range-restricted Somali Short-toed Lark. If we are very fortunate we may see coveys of Coqui Francolins or flush a migrant Corn Crake. The surrounding dry woodland and thorn savannah support Bateleur, Tawny Eagle, African Harrier-hawk, Eastern Chanting-goshawk, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Abyssinian Roller, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Greater Honeyguide, Red-and-yellow Barbet, the rare and enigmatic Gillett's Lark, Dodson's Bulbul, Spotted Mourning Thrush, Boran and Ashy Cisticolas, Golden Pipit, Pale Flycatcher, Mouse-coloured Penduline-tit, Grey-headed and Red-naped Bush-shrikes, Slate-coloured Boubou, Taita Fiscal, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Golden-breasted, Shelley's and White-crowned Starlings, Somali Crow, Somali Bunting and Northern Grosbeak-canary. If we are lucky, we may see Salt's and Günther's Dikdiks and Gerenuk, whilst Anubis Baboons may also be encountered.
Day 11 Today's drive will take us near to the Kenyan border and finally to the Yabello region, home to two of Ethiopia's most sought-after endemic birds, both listed as globally-threatened: Stresemann's Bush Crow and White-tailed Swallow. This area of Acacia savannah is characterised by giant red termite mounds, some towering 5m above the plains, and both of these birds seem to be associated with these marvels of natural architecture. Other birds we may see today are the extremely-localised White-winged Collared-dove and Juba Weaver. Two nights at a simple hotel.
Day 12 We will spend a full day exploring this bird-rich area. In addition to the two special endemics, we will look for Gabar Goshawk, Pygmy Falcon, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Vulturine Guineafowl, Mottled Swift, Lichtenstein's and Black-faced Sandgrouse, Blue-naped Mousebird, Pale Prinia, Rufous-crowned and Lilac-breasted Rollers, Pringle's Puffback, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Hunter's and Shining Sunbirds, Three-streaked Tchagra, Superb and Wattled Starlings, Yellow-spotted Petronia, Chestnut Sparrow, Grey-headed and Black-capped Social-weavers, Chestnut Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia and White-bellied Canary. In the evening we will make a local excursion to look for Donaldson-Smith's Nightjar.
Day 13 The three neighbouring lakes in the central Ethiopian Rift Valley are totally different from each other but have one thing in common: all are superb birding sites. We will spend the day exploring the shores and surrounding woodlands of all three lakes. We hope to find Somali Ostrich, huge flocks of Greater and Lesser Flamingos, Southern Pochard, Cape Teal, Dark Chanting-goshawk, Eastern Imperial and Long-crested Eagles, Grey Kestrel, Kittlitz's Plover, Great Black-headed Gull, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Little Bee-eater, Hemprich's Hornbill, Abyssinian Ground-hornbill, Grey Woodpecker, Grassveld Pipit, Isabelline, Pied and Schalow's Wheatears, Little Rock-thrush, African Thrush, Buff-bellied Warbler, Red-faced Crombec, Rüppell's Long-tailed Starling, Red-billed Oxpecker and Red-billed Firefinch. Mammals we may see include Grant's Gazelle, Oribi and Spotted Hyena.
Day 14 The three neighbouring lakes in the central Ethiopian Rift Valley are totally different from each other but all are superb birding sites. We will spend the day exploring the shores and surrounding woodlands of all three lakes. We will hope to find Somali Ostrich, huge flocks of Greater and Lesser Flamingos, Southern Pochard, Cape Teal, Dark Chanting-goshawk, Imperial and Long-crested Eagles, Grey Kestrel, Kittlitz's Plover, Great Black-headed Gull, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Little Bee-eater, Hemprich's Hornbill, Abyssinian Ground-hornbill, Grey Woodpecker, African Pipit, Isabelline, Pied and Schalow's Wheatears, Little Rock-thrush, African Thrush, Buff-bellied Warbler, Red-faced Crombec, Rüppell's Long-tailed Starling, Red-billed Oxpecker and Red-billed Firefinch. Mammals may include Grant's Gazelle, Oribi and Spotted Hyena.
Day 15 After further early-morning birding around Lake Langano we will head to Awash National Park. The route takes us through savannah habitat and numerous Rift Valley Lakes with great birding. As we skirt around the lava fields at the base of the Fantale Crater, we will look for Sombre Rock-chat and Blackstart. Two nights Awash National Park.
Day 16 Today will be spent in the superb Awash National Park, specifically around the Bilen and Fulhowa Hotsprings, the Awash River and the Kirayawa Gorge, exploring riverine forests, wetlands, thorn woodlands, savannah grasslands, rocky hills, cliffs and escarpments. The park boasts a bird list of 460 species and we will look for Egyptian Vulture, Greater Spotted Eagle, Scissor-tailed Kite, Shikra, Arabian, Buff-crested, Hartlaub's and White-bellied Bustards, Three-banded Courser, Helmeted Guineafowl, Small Buttonquail, Eastern Grey Plantain-eater, White-browed Coucal, Plain Nightjar, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Greater Honeyguide, Wire-tailed Swallow, Red-winged Lark, Singing Bushlark, Blackstart, Red-backed Scrub-robin, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Green-backed Camaroptera, Grey-headed Batis, Slate-coloured Boubou, White-rumped Shrike, Somali Fiscal, Nile Valley and Marico Sunbirds, Grey-headed and Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrikes, Fan-tailed Raven, Red-billed Quelea and Red-rumped Waxbill. Mammals may include Lion, Leopard, Beisa Oryx, Aardvark, Soemmering's Gazelle, Impala, Hamadryas Baboon, Abyssinian Hare, African Wild Cat, Black-backed Jackal, Striped Hyena and Greater and Lesser Kudu. We will also take a night-drive to look for the more elusive nocturnal species.
Day 17After some early morning birding around the lodge, we will make the return journey to Addis Ababa. We will have another opportunity to look for Sombre Rock-chat in the lava fields of the Fantale Crater before stopping for lunch en-route. Arriving back in to Addis Ababa, we will have time to shower and change before dinner following which, we will return to the airport for our late evening/early morning flight back to the UK.
Day 18Arrival in the UK. Those taking the optional extension will have spent the night in Addis Ababa.
EXTENSION
Day 18 We will drive to Debre Birhan and then to Ankober to look for the rare and highly-localised endemic Ankober Serin. Continuing on to Melka Ghebdu, we will look for the equally rare and highly localised endemic Yellow-throated Seedeater before returning through Ankober to Debre Birhan for the night.
Day 19 Today we will head for Lomi Ketema, birding en route. Our objective is to look for the highly-localised, endemic Harwood's Francolin. Overnight in basic accommodation in Lomi Ketema.
Day 20 We will start early to drive into the Jemmu Valley to look for Harwood's Francolin, after which we will return to Addis Ababa to the Ghion Hotel for the night, birding en route.
Day 21 We will take an early-morning flight northwest to Bahar Dar on the shores of Lake Tana. This, the highest lake in Africa, is the source of the Blue Nile, but our primary reason for coming here is the endemic White-throated Seedeater. This is found not far from the lake, where the Blue Nile plummets over the Tississat Falls. Other birds we may see include Black-billed Barbet and Slender-billed and Chestnut-winged Starlings. We may also have time to bird along the banks of the Blue Nile, giving us the opportunity to see multi-coloured flocks of Yellow-mantled Widowbirds, Black-winged, Red and Yellow-crowned Bishops and Zebra Waxbills. Overnight in Bahar Dar.
Day 22 After more birding at Lake Tana we will take a late-afternoon flight to Addis Ababa, where we can freshen up at a hotel before the late-evening flight home, arriving in the UK on Day 23.
General Information Afternoons can be hot at 35–40°C but early mornings can be chilly so, as well as a sun hat, you will need a jumper. It is important to drink plenty, so a water bottle is a good idea. There are a number of health requirements and you must contact your GP in this respect. Walks are generally easy, although in the heat it can sometimes be tiring and some walks along wadis need a little extra effort. Accommodation is in twin-bedded rooms, in comfortable hotels with private facilities in some places but in more basic establishments with shared facilities in others. Visas are required.
Group Size Minimum number for tour to go ahead: 8; maximum group size: 12 with 2 leaders.
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