ROMANIA 18–27 April 2009 Leaders: Tudor Blaj and Peter Basterfield

The vast mountain and hill forests of Romania are one of Europe's wildlife treasures. The country also possesses the world's most extensive area of reedbed – the mighty Danube Delta. This tour explores the best of these habitats and also the excellent coastal wetland and steppe areas in the southeast part of the country. This region is increasingly the focus of interest from British birders, and our guide in Romania has worked with many groups. The tour is timed to take place at peak migration time, when most of the key breeding species are arriving.

Day 1 Scheduled flight from London to Bucharest. On arrival, we drive north to Sinaia, which will be our base for three nights.

Day 2 We spend today searching for Wallcreeper in the Transylvanian Alps. This is a spectacular and adventurous day driving on unsurfaced mountain tracks. As well as crag sites for Wallcreeper, we visit the high moorland in quest of Water Pipit, Alpine Accentor and Shore Lark. Areas of spruce near the tree line can often reveal Spotted Nutcracker, Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker, Ring Ouzel, the Alpine race of Willow Tit, Crested Tit and Tree Pipit. We return to Sinaia for the night and after dinner we will drive to the outskirts of Brasov in quest of bears.

Day 3 We spend the morning exploring some slightly less-elevated forest habitat in search of Red-breasted and Collared Flycatchers and Black, Grey-headed and White-backed Woodpeckers. In the afternoon we descend into Transylvania, to some inland oak wood habitat, which is often good for Eurasian Wryneck and gives us a chance of Black Stork. We also explore some wetland habitat, with the possibility of Lesser Spotted Eagle, Black Tern and Marsh Warbler.

Day 4 This is our one long travelling day as we make our way to one of the remotest parts of the Danube Delta. We pause along the way at an inland wetland, Rodeanu Pond, and then continue to Mahmudia. The final part of the journey is by boat, down the southernmost channel of the Danube Delta. The two-hour trip brings us to the large, isolated fishing village of Sfantu Gheorghe (Saint George), a peaceful place that is far from any road and not far from the seashore, where we will be based for three nights in a very comfortable villa in the village.

Day 5 Our first day at Sfantu Gheorhe will be spent on foot, exploring a variety of the Delta habitats right outside the village. The first one is an area of scrub, good for Red-backed Shrike and Eastern Olivaceous Warbler. Beyond this we explore an open sandy area: a nesting site for Eurasian Thick-knee (Stone Curlew). A long sandy beach is a mile from our base and we shall not be ignoring this. An area of woodland is good for European Nightjar, Eurasian Hobby, Red-footed Falcon and European Roller. The wetland can usually be relied upon to produce Spotted Redshank, Little Bittern and Squacco Heron.

Day 6 On our second full day in the delta, we head south from the village in our own boat, to an area of shallows near Sachalin Island. Eurasian Spoonbill, Dalmatian and Great White Pelicans, White-tailed Eagle, Red-necked Grebe, Caspian Gull and Little and Sandwich Terns are on the cards here, along with all three species of marsh terns. We will have a picnic lunch and make our way back to the village in the afternoon.

Day 7 Reluctantly leaving Sfantu Gheorghe, we head back by boat to the small river-port of Mahmudia and drive into Babadag Forest in quest of Ortolan Bunting, Sombre Tit, Middle Spotted Woodpecker and other species. We will explore a remnant stretch of steppe country for Short-toed Snake-eagle and Short-toed Lark, and then continue to a rocky valley where Pied Wheatear breeds. In the late afternoon we will arrive at our coastal base of Mamaia-Sat for a two-night stay.

Day 8 Our day out takes us first to the rich wetlands of Vadu, where Collared Pratincole is one of our target species. Also highly possible here are Great Bittern, Pied Avocet and Black-winged Stilt. In the pools with muddy margins, parties of Little Stints are likely together with Marsh and Curlew Sandpipers. We continue to Histria, which can claim to be perhaps the most bird-rich spot on the Black Sea coast. Our target here is Paddyfield Warbler, but the list of possibles is impressive and includes Kentish Plover, Garganey, Red-crested Pochard and Gull-billed Tern.

Day 9 From Mamaia-Sat, we head southwest across the hills of southern Dobrogea to a remote wooded valley with rocky crags: a breeding site for European Eagle-owl, Long-legged Buzzard and Red-rumped Swallow. The woods also hold Eurasian Golden Oriole and Icterine Warbler. We continue to Lake Bugeac, where Ruddy Shelduck can be found. Moving onwards, our journey takes us across the Danube on a small car ferry adjacent to the Bulgarian town of Silistra. We stay close to the banks of the Danube and spend the night at Calarasi.

Day 10 There will be time for morning birding in the first-class wetland near Calarasi before we drive west to Bucharest for our afternoon flight to London

General Information Romania is one of Europe's more adventurous countries. Expect the weather to be similar to that in Britain at the same time of year, but probably warmer on the coast. In the mountains we shall see patches of snow and suitable clothing, including walking boots, should be brought. There are no special health requirements. Insects will be only a minor problem and just in the delta area. The itinerary is fairly relaxed and mostly only a general degree of fitness for walking is required. In the mountains, however, some of the walks may need a little extra stamina (particularly if snow is still present on the ground). The food is very good and varied and is also suitable for vegetarians. Wine, beer etc., are very good and pretty cheap! Romanian plumbing can be a little unreliable, but supplies of hot water are assured. Roads are mostly good, but there is some driving on rough tracks and potholes are not unknown. The tour can be good for mammals, with Brown Bear and Souslik (Ground Squirrel) likely, and we should also see some reptiles.

Group Size Minimum number for tour to go ahead: 6; maximum group size: 12 with 2 leaders.

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